England's angel of the North

When most tourists think of a holiday in England they think of London. But there is more to the green and pleasant land than the capital. The North East of the country – now easily accessible on a direct flight from Dubai – has its very own charm, character and sightseeing attractions.

If your image of the North East is of coal mines and bad weather then it's time to forget your preconceived ideas and discover one of the most up and coming regions in the UK.

Stretching from the River Tees to the Scottish Border, the North East receives nine million visitors annually and was recently named as a must-see destination in the Lonely Planet Bluelist 2008. The book described the region as "the most exciting, beautiful and friendly region in the whole of England". And with the area's rejuvenated cities, fascinating history and the dramatic Northumberland wilderness it's easy to see why.

At the heart of this region is Newcastle Upon Tyne, which is certainly not your typical industrial city. As well as being home to famous footballers such as Alan Shearer and British television celebrities Ant and Dec, it also boasts the world's first train – The Rocket – built in 1823 and houses the world's first train factory. In the 1800s the city made history when it became the first place to have streets illuminated with electric lights.

As my aeroplane cruised into land at Newcastle International Airport the North Sea gave way to the rolling green fields of the North East, which lie in stark contrast to the landscape of the Emirates. With the airport located just 15km north of the city centre, getting to the heart of the action is easy. And thanks to Newcastle's close proximity to other towns and cities, such as Durham and Middlesbrough, it's the perfect base to explore the region. Even Edinburgh, Scotland's capital, is just a couple of hours' drive away.

Newcastle has come a long way in the past decade and huge regeneration has helped to transform the place from an industrial shipbuilding hub to a bustling modern metropolis. Today it is a hip haven for party people, culture vultures and those looking for a spot of retail therapy.

The city earned its name back in the 13th century when the Normans built a new castle over a Roman fort. Not much is left of the castle now but there is still a great deal to see in the city, including architecture that dates from the 17th century Guildhall, Quayside, to the award winning Civic Centre opened in 1968. The city's Museum of Science and Engineering and the Laing Art Gallery with its Edwardian Baroque collection or the bagpipe museum are all worth a visit.

After a first night in the Hilton Newcastle Gateshead, located on the south side of the river and just a 20-minute walk from the city centre I made my way to the Sage and Baltic area. The Sage outdoor arena is dedicated to music and holds performances in its two concert halls – this month the Summertyne festival is holding free concerts every night.

Beside the Sage lies the renovated Baltic Flour Mills, which are dedicated to exhibitions showcasing established and new artists' works. It is not a traditional gallery – works are more akin to Tracey Emin than van Gogh, but it's worth a visit if only to see the tree with miniature wax animal heads hanging from the branches. Make the trip on a Saturday in the summer and you'll find artists creating masterpieces in front of you.

The Metro Centre – Europe's largest shopping emporium – is easily accessible from many corners of the city with good public transport links via bus or train. In recent years it has undergone a facelift, but don't expect the same mall experience as the UAE. Glitz, glamour, glossy marble and ski slopes are not part of this shopping centre's down-to-earth image. But looks aside, this is the place to grab a high-street bargain and clothes are much cheaper than the UAE.

The centre is also a weekend family retreat with a wide range of restaurants serving every cuisine possible and a cinema showing the latest releases.

Shopping is one of Newcastle's best pastimes and, as well as the mall, the extensive city centre has everything a fashionista could want. I spent the second day exploring the stores enjoying the novelty of shopping outside rather than being inside an air-conditioned building.

But there's only so much shopping a girl can do and it was time to get back to the hotel for some rest. While the Hilton is the perfect business hotel – it has even played host to the Conservative party during their conference in the city – the Malmaison on the quayside is excellent for those looking for some pampering. The in-house brasserie, is very popular at the weekend, so it's advisable to book in advance.

But visitors must not limit themselves to their hotel's facilities or the confines of the city. So I decided to get out of town and see more of what the region has to offer. There are numerous attractions within a 30-minute drive of Newcastle, including the nearby town of Hexham, which has developed from a traditional market town to a thriving commuter area with small individual boutiques for the keen shopper.

A 15-minute ride down the motorway towards Beamish takes you past the Angel of the North. This bronze-coloured steel statue stands proud atop a hillside with wings measuring a huge 54 metres across. It caused controversy when the sculpture by Antony Gormley was built 10 years ago and many branded it ugly. But a decade on it has become an official icon of the North East.

Beamish Open Air Museum in County Durham is just 13km south west of Newcastle and well worth a visit – it's like stepping back in time to pre-war England.

I hopped on and off the tram stopping at different exhibits in the 300-acre site. From Home Farm where much of the food was produced for villagers to The Town and Colliery Village, visitors can wander through the exhibits and find out how life was. Cooks, dressed in Victorian costume, bake cakes while soldiers patrol the village. It's a great insight into life at the time and makes a nice change to the modern world outside. At £16 (Dh112), families can easily make a day of it.

For less hectic day trips, and something youngsters will also love, follow in the footsteps of Harry Potter and visit Alnwick Castle, where parts of the films were shot. The stunning medieval castle is home to the Duke of Northumberland and set in extensive gardens, which make July and August the perfect time to visit.

But perhaps one of the most important aspects of North East life is sport. With two rugby teams, a thriving athletics arena and of course the famous Newcastle United, fans are spoilt for choice when it comes to the beautiful game.

Football for the Geordies – as the residents are commonly known after the city supporting George I – is not so much a hobby as a religion and a trip to St James's Park during the season is a must for any fan.

Located to the north of Newcastle's city centre, the area around the Magpie's ground has been regenerated but the white and glass façade still dominates the skyline. To get the excitement going, join a behind the scenes tour and dream you are an international star.

But whether a sports fan or not, there is certainly plenty to keep tourists occupied. With outdoor concerts, bargain shopping, museums, trips to Scotland, beautiful landscape and friendly people you'll be returning home with many memories and no more stereotypes.


Essential guide

- How to get there: Emirates airline flies daily to Newcastle from Dubai. Economy prices start at Dh3,860 and business from Dh17,470 return. Visit www.emirates.com to book.

- Where to stay: The Hilton Newcastle Gateshead is a great place to stay to explore all that the city has to offer. A double room with breakfast starts from £106 (Dh760) including tax. Visit www.hilton.com for more information. 

The Malmaison offers luxury accommodation from £170 per night (Dh1,220) for a double room with breakfast. See www.malmaison-newcastle.com for details.

- For more information: Log on to www.newcastlegateshead.com

 

Don't leave home without

- A camera: take it on the plane too for those panoramic shots
- An umbrella: it might be summer but the British weather is never guaranteed
- A credit card: shopping in the UK is great for a bargain