Singapore is the Malay word for "Lion City", but after stepping off the plane visitors quickly realise that this moniker could be misleading. The tropical city-state comes across as a tamed version of the typical Asian destination; a safe and conservative place where citizens are banned from spitting on the street and chewing gum.
The island nation, whose squeaky-clean image emanates from manicured roads, well-groomed residents and cookie-cutter districts, each year attracts to its shores diverse crowds looking for culture, adventure, sun and retail therapy.
And despite its restrained appearance, the countless attractions, from lush Sentosa Island to the bustling shopping havens of Orchard Road, keep Singapore one of the most visited destinations in Asia.
As a rule, a city is best viewed from up high and Singapore is no exception. The tiny island – its area just about 700 sq km – boasts a number of attractions that offer dizzying views of its leafy hilltops, towering skyline, and on clear days, glimpses of neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia.
The latest draw is the newly opened Singapore Flyer, perched on the tip of the reclaimed land of Marina Bay. The gigantic observation wheel is currently the largest in the world – it stands 30 metres taller than the London Eye – and promises unobstructed views of the surrounding islands.
The half-hour ride to complete one rotation takes you 165 metres high, where it's possible to spot the colonial Raffles Place and Merlion Park, home to Singapore's half-lion half-fish tourism symbol. Our guide also pointed out the Indonesian islands of Batam and Bintan and Johor, Malaysia. He later said the Flyer initially rotated counter-clockwise but under the advice of feng shui masters changed its direction earlier this year to pick up good energy.
The Marina Centre, where the Flyer sits, is filled with tasty eateries, souvenir shops and a lush rainforest-like central atrium. An unexpected treat though is the Kenko Reflexology & Fish Spa, where the non-squeamish can dip their feet into warm shallow water for an unforgettable pedicure with dozens of little "fish doctors".
While live fish nibbling at the dead skin on your feet is known to promote blood circulation, ease psoriasis, relieve stress and smooth skin, it made me feel queasy so I'll be sticking to my old-fashioned scrubs.
Despite this nearly killing our appetite we wandered to Seafood Paradise @ Flyer determined for a taste of authentic Singaporean cuisine. We were told the chilli crab and cereal prawns at this locally popular restaurant are not to be missed, and they were right.
On to Sentosa Island and another head-spinning panoramic view of the country comes courtesy of the Tiger Sky Tower, which stands 110 metres tall at the centre of the island. The tower lifts and spins us leisurely into the air for another breathtaking 360-degree view of the landscape.
While at Sentosa, also check out the tiger sharks and dugongs (aka sea cows) at Underwater World Singapore, which features an "under the sea" tunnel surrounded by these nearly extinct beasts, as well as colourful sea dragons and tropical fish.
Glass-bottomed cabin cable cars offering amazing bird's eye views fly us from Sentosa to the mainland at Mount Faber, where we dined on fresh pan-fried cod and sumptuous desserts at The Jewel Box hilltop restaurant against a spectacular backdrop of the city skyline and tropical greenery.
Singapore is easily navigable, with most sites accessible on a walking tour along the murky Singapore River. Its three quays, or riverside entertainment strips, line the river from Robertson Quay down to the financial district.
There's definitely something more charming about this part of town. Walking along the water and across the bridges of the colonial district – now known for its trendy night scene – you detect traces of Singapore's rich historical past — a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian and British influences that forged the budding island nation into the bustling trade post it is today.
It's also impossible not to notice how clean, organised and well-structured everything is. The tree-shaded roads and highways are refreshingly free of traffic snarls, making moving around unhurried and hassle-free. I'm told the city constantly tries to improve convenience and accessibility by concentrating on different kinds of venues in specific districts.
Of the three quays, Robertson Quay – also known as the "Mohamed Sultan" area – offers the most tranquil setting. Here Singaporeans, expats and visitors dine al fresco at some of the city's best French brasseries.
A short walk along the river, the old restored warehouses of Clarke Quay are now home to some of the city's best nightlife. This revamped area is where revellers come to experience Singapore by night, enjoy the casual atmosphere or just to people watch. Clarke Quay also has some great alternatives to mainstream Singapore attractions, including quirky second-hand and antique shops.
At Riverside Point – a strip of eateries by the water – the mouthwatering chilli crab at the famous Jumbo restaurant lured me back. Here it is easy to see how the city's history of migration has created one of the world's great gastro-capitals.
Along the next bridge and across the river lies Boat Quay, an old aquatic trade post where the carefully conserved shophouses are now home to a continuous string of al fresco bars, and where young professionals and financial types come to hang out after work.
Boat Quay lies adjacent to the financial heart of Singapore and boasts unparalleled views of the neo-classical five-star Fullerton Hotel and the city's central business district. For years this area has been a magnet for thousands of expats seeking high-profile jobs and glitzy lifestyles. While food is obviously a passion, I discovered it's shopping that's the national pastime. I got my own personal retail fix with a stroll down Orchard Road, where an impressive Christmas light-up stretches across the tree-lined street from the shopping belt to Marina Bay.
Here the fashion emporiums – from Gucci and Louis Vuitton to local department store Tangs – are lined up to give credit cards a battering and window shoppers a peek at the extravagances on offer. Along the road vendors sell ice cream in soft sweet bread sandwiches, which is a local treat. Here you can also enjoy the best of Singapore's hawker fare in the comfort of the five-star Straits Kitchen in the Grand Hyatt.
A bit of adventure was definitely welcomed after the excessive eating and shopping of the past few days. If nature activities are what you crave, take a treetop walk in Jurong Bird Park's dense canopy, where more than 9,000 birds of 600 different species from all over the world hang out. Highlights include the world's tallest man-made waterfall and a penguin exhibit housing rock formations swarming with more than 200 penguins.
The open-concept Singapore Zoo in the city's heavily forested central nature reserve is another haunt, where a "jungle breakfast" will bring you face to face with some very charismatic orangutans.
Now over four decades since Singapore gained its official sovereign status, the tropical year-round destination is a bustling mix of urban planning and lush rainforest that offers something to all.
Just remember to take walking boots and a credit card.
Essentials
Getting there:
Emirates flies direct to Singapore. Log onto
www.emirates.comStaying there:
Raffles Hotel (5-star), 1 Beach Road, Singapore. Tel: +65 6337 1886
www.raffles.com
Gallery Hotel (4-star boutique), 1 Nanson Road at Robertson Quay, Singapore. Tel: +65 6849 8686
www.galleryhotel.comMust dos:
Taste the famous Singapore chilli crab
Take a shopping trip down Orchard Road
Information:
Call Singapore Tourism Board on +65 6736 2000. Log on to
www.visitsingapore.com
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