Chinese duet

How hot is hot? When talking Szechuan food, most people know to approach with caution, either from past experience or from urban legends about the effects of the fiery, numbing fangara pepper so integral to the cuisine.

Here in the shiny emirate, that is not our experience at all at the Fairmont Dubai, whose Spectrum on One restaurant is hosting a festival of Szechuan and Shanghainese food until May 31.

That does not mean our Szechuan fish is not spicy, only that it is a flavoured spiceness instead of the stomach-burning stuff that Szechuan is now shorthand for. Which is how they do it in China, Chef de Cuisine Steven Liu tells us.

A perfect counterpoint is the Shanghai-style wok-fried green asparagus and scallops, which leads with a strong star anise before settling back into a comforting ginger and garlic flavour. Or try the stir-fried tofu and crabs, also from the general Shanghai region. The tofu is delicate and super soft, the crabs absolutely divine.

This flavour-meets-spice approach to Chinese food works very well indeed, offering the city's jaded palates a fusion of tastes that for once, does not end up in a confusing, colliding mash.

We rounded out our meal – which began with a mix of freshly steamed dim sum – with one of those amazing mixed desserts they do so well in the Far East.

The traditional Si Mi Lo serves up fresh melon, lychees, almond jelly and tapioca, rounding the lot out with coconut milk and a tangy burst of lemon.

It is a brilliant mix that comes together beautifully in a fitting reminder of the incredible diversity of China and her food.

Shanghai and Szechuan. Until May 31 at Spectrum on One, Fairmont Dubai. Call 04 332 5555

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