Emirati designers demand more fashion limelight

Despite its growing stature, some Emirati designers are bemoaning the lack of representation at the bi-annual Dubai Fashion Week, which began yesterday.

Held twice a year to keep up with fashion seasons – spring/summer and autumn/winter – the event's mix of designers representing the UAE's various resident nationalities has led to some Emirati designers feeling rather left out.

"It's more like an Indian or Pakistani fashion week," says Mariam Al Mazro, who designs for her label Mimi Fashion Design. "It's ironic that it is called Dubai Fashion Week when there is barely any representation of us.

"Fashion weeks are meant to promote local designers and give them a platform. I understand the need to have a mix because of the expatriate population here and I think 60 Emirati designers to 40 expatriate designers is a fair percentage ratio. But that's not happening."

Amal Murad, another Emirati designer, thinks that perhaps organisers are not doing enough to scour for the right talent. "Maybe their approach is wrong. Maybe they need to put more effort to look for Emirati designers. It's just a matter of going to the right places to find the right people. There are so many of them, some very talented and gifted," she says.

"For now it's just like a lifestyle event, not a serious fashion week to help create a real industry."

Murad, who designs abayas and who recently took her eponymous label to Rome Fashion Week, is the first Emirati to showcase at a major international fashion week.

Another problem, she says, is the entry price charged by organisers. "Even if they do find those Emirati talents, some of them just can't afford to participate. The rate has been going up every season and this time I'm paying Dh35,000."

Al Mazro, who launched her label in 2008, says she paid Dh25,000 when she first participated three seasons ago.

"It's been going up by Dh4,000 to Dh5,000 every season. How can upcoming designers afford that?" she asks.

Saif Ali Khan, the Executive Vice-President of Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) told Emirates Business his company has done its best to bring costs down.

"The fashion week has been making tremendous losses because of the cost of putting together such a massive event. We are a private company with no grants or support from any government organisation," he says.

"We are hosting a major event at a five- star property, bringing the best buyers from top New York stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdales and putting them up for the week. Such things cost money."

Khan's company, the Concept Group, has organised the DFW for the past three years and six installments. The seventh season, with a record number of sponsors, shows and designers, will be the event's biggest yet, he says. Designers from India, Pakistan, Lebanon, the Philippines and from across the region – both based in the UAE and international names aiming to reach regional buyers – will participate in the week long event at the city's Jumeirah Emirates Towers.

The biggest organisational challenge has been to make sure the company breaks even while making sure it hosts a quality event, Khan adds.

Of the 48 designers participating – the highest ever in the event's three-year history – eight are Emiratis, he says, describing it as a fair representation.

"A lot of the Emirati designers have been given special discounts. If I had a choice, I would let them participate for free, but at the end of the day, we are a private company and we need to put this show together and we can't be undergoing loss every time.

"I know there are a lot of Emirati designers, but I need quality. DFW is an international event and the vision is to be on par with other fashion weeks in Milan, Paris and London. So we need the right talent represent us.

"We are determined to discover the best and latest talent, that is why we have the 'Emerging Talents' competition every season," Khan adds.

But according to Hind Beljafla, one half of the Emirati design duo for DAS Collection, encouragement needs to come from the larger market too. "There is still a misunderstanding that local designers design abayas that can only be worn by Emiratis. We would love foreigners and expats to adorn themselves with our abaya collections," she says.

Designers, Emirati or not, will be noticed if they have the talent, she adds. "I don't think we are being overshadowed by other designers. Like artists, good designers will always be recognised for their talent and work."

Murad and Al Mazro say the media is also partly to be blamed.

"We get a lot of support from the Arabic media. But local magazines published here in other languages, especially the English media, hardly notice us. We need a bigger audience and we need their support to reach that audience," says Murad.

"We feel they cover other designers extensively. We just need them to pay us little attention."

The outspoken Al Mazro says the local English media almost completely neglects Arabic and Emirati designers.

"You see them supporting designers from other countries. It's funny, they are in my country, they are making money out of my country and all we want is just a little support."

DAS Collection's Beljafla thinks its difficult to get the English media to pay attention because of the perception that Emirati designers only create abayas.

"They are definitely talented enough to hold their own but like anywhere in the world, they are still undiscovered talent," she says.

Beljafla and her sister, who launched DAS Collection last year, are currently working with cosmetics giant Maybelline to scour the nation for a new designer talent.

"We want help designers with a raw talent to help them find their niche in the business."

Al Mazro, who says she creates "unconventional kaftans" under her Mimi label, says her clothes can be worn by anyone.

"My core customers now are mostly Emiratis and women from the Gulf region," she says. "I've never designed abayas and don't see myself creatively inclined that way."

Murad, who launched her label in 2005, says she's looking at more international events to showcase her collections. Demand is increasing for trendy abayas, she says.

"Participating in Rome was an achievement, but I see it as a first, important step," she says.

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